The final destination for the second stage of our BIG adventure was Singapore - country number twelve. As we rolled across the border with a million other scooters we couldn't help but notice all the differences compared to the previous SE Asian countries. Green grass - there actually was grass, next to no garbage gathering in every nook and cranny, and tall, modern buildings sporting some awesome architecture. Another difference which we were warned about was the relatively high cost of nearly everything! No more $20 hotel rooms. Even the deal we got through Agoda for the damp and windowless room on our first night in Singapore was $50. So we called upon the Warmshowers community to help us out and once again they - specifically James and Greta - responded with hospitality way beyond expectations. We even managed a small get-together with a few other local WS hosts. Thanks again everyone!
We had a bit of a tour by bike through the city, stopping in at Raffles and strolling through the botanical gardens (wow). However, Singapore is built for fluid traffic flow, not meandering cyclotourists - most of the major arteries resemble expressways, so we focused on getting our bikes boxed up and ourselves ready for the big commute to New Zealand.
Even with the extra vigilance of the New Zealand immigration, requiring that all bikes, boots, etc to be quite clean upon arrival, the bikes made it to and through the airport without issue. Well, almost - somehow my chain and wheel skewers did not make it into the bike box back in Singapore. Might have something to do with my chronic 'can't-stay-organised-to-save-my-life'itis. Some things never change! Luckily the hotel was a mere 2 km away from the airport, so after building them up in the arrivals waiting area, our first outing with the bikes in New Zealand was a walk beside them! Obviously a trip to the nearest bike shop was in order (oh darn it all) and the fine folks at Burkes Cycle had just what we needed. With bikes in working order and after a long, amazing sleep and some food we could pronounce, we were off exploring Windy Wellington.
New Zealand is one of the most sparsely-populated countries on the planet and with such an incredible variety of topography, it's not surprising that there is a plethora of cycling routes scattered throughout both islands. According to our handy dandy cycletouring handbook by the Kennett brothers (local gurus of cycling), the Rimutaka Trail is a 2 - 3 day tour with moderately easy to somewhat technical terrain. Lonely Planet lists this trail as 'one of the world's hottest travel experiences for 2015'. As the trailhead just happened to be north of Wellington, we decided to check it out.
The trail follows an old rail line through the Rimutaka range and we were surprised at the pitch of some sections, not to mention the wind in Siberia Gully. The views are consistently mind-blowing. Both of us were fairly speechless as we went along, heads pivoting back and forth to take it all in. Not long into the ride we found Stonestead Devonshire Tea House, where the fresh-baked scones were the size of my head and the accompanying local jams and butter competed with the clotted cream for space on each bite. After this luxury, we continued along the trail to our home for the night - Cross Creek, once a small community of rail workers and their families in the middle of the forest, now abandoned with only a few railway installations left behind. There was absolutely no one around for miles. The night sky of the southern hemisphere was nothing short of dazzling with a whole new set of constellations shining slightly brighter than the other millions of stars.
The next morning we rejoined the trail and rode south, past very scenic farmland along Lake Wairarapa. Our ride was continually interrupted by the compulsion to take yet another photo or video (hence the 150-ish photos we've included in this post). Managing maybe 12-15 km/hr, we meandered toward the Wild Coast where the pavement turned to beachsand and we literally pushed our fully-laden ponies along the shoreline for hours. Eventually the sand turned back to hard-pack trail and we could pedal our way back to Wellington. A tough day on/beside the bikes but the scenery made it all worthwhile! The immense, clear blue sky hovering over whitecaps of a turquoise sea. A rough and tumble beach merging into the intense green, rolling, guardian mountains. I'll never forget how majestic it all seemed.
This was our introduction to New Zealand. So far so 'absolutely stunning'. From here we join Charlotte and Matt Kelleher for a stay on their hobby farm for a month. We hope to learn a bit about caring for horses and enjoy a bit of a routine for a while. We'll continue to explore the north island and then head down to the south island in about six weeks. There is no sense of 'having to get to the next destination' like there was in Asia. Here we are at home everywhere.
And we have real cream again for our coffee! I plan to eat all the dairy I didn't get in Asia.